Tasting Hong Kong

Dim sum, the steamed and fried Cantonese dishes created to go with tea, has undergone countless reinterpretations in Hong Kong and is now widely available around the world. However, in the hustle and bustle of Central, many traditional teahouses with decades of history still offer the most classic dim sum dishes, and Lin Heung Tea House, established in the early 20^th century, is one of them.

Step into this two-storey building and be transported back in time by the vintage hanging fan, bird cages and Chinese calligraphy. Resisting modern trends, Lin Heung Tea House still maintains the tradition of serving dim sum in carts pushed by staff. Usually busy and lively, this is the place to try some of the most classic dim sum dishes, such as roast pork belly rolls, large chicken buns, and steamed pork siu mai with quail eggs. Rather than waiting to be served, diners here walk over to the cart to pick out their favourite dishes — a rare sight in today’s restaurants.

From morning till night, Sing Heung Yuen is always full of customers who come to this dai pai dong (open-air food stall) for the signature tomato noodle soup and crispy buns with lemon and honey. The former is a sweet and sour delight with fresh tomatoes, whilst the latter is a traditional crispy bun topped with butter, honey and fresh lemon juice.

Influenced by British culture, locals love to enjoy milk tea, but the Hong Kong version comes with evaporated milk and sugar. Different proportions and mixing techniques offer different flavours and textures. If you want a cup of authentic Hong Kong-style milk tea, Lan Fong Yuen is the place to go.

Already passed down to the fourth generation, the century-old Yuk Yip Dessert is known for their simple, no-gimmicks Chinese desserts that bring traditional tastes to customers. Try the smooth, refreshing green bean soup with kelp, and glutinous rice balls topped with sugar and shredded coconut.

Fancy a piping hot, silky and irresistibly aromatic egg tart? Grab one from Tai Cheong Bakery on Lyndhurst Terrace. With over 60 years of history, this household shop used to be a favourite of Hong Kong’s last colonial governor Chris Patten.

Want to bring traditional Hong Kong-style desserts back home? Head to Chan Yee Jai, which has offered freshly made traditional delicacies such as haw flakes, preserved lemon with liquorice, Chinese almond biscuits, barley biscuits and bird’s nest cakes since 1927.

Graham Market with over a century’s history is a popular place for groceries. Traditional foods such as sauces and handmade noodles make great souvenirs, and Kowloon Soy Company, founded in 1917, is renowned for soy sauce made with traditional techniques. Another must-go shop is Kan Kee Noodles, which has been operating for over six decades. The shop is famous for handmade shrimp egg noodles, egg noodles and wonton wrappers, which are favoured by nearby restaurants including Kau Kee Restaurant, Lin Heung Tea House and Shanghai Min.

Herbal tea is a quintessential part of Hong Kong life. Chinese herbal tonics, called leung cha (cooling tea), are thought to expel heat and dampness from the body and treat everything from acne to colds.

Founded in the 1940s, the herbal teahouse Kung Lee is still loved by many locals. The décor transports one back to the 1950s and 60s, with wooden fixtures, ceramic tiles and ceiling fans. Among the menu of herbal tonics, sugarcane juice is the bestseller. Peeled and steamed using traditional methods, the sugarcanes are pressed with an antique juicer to produce a refreshingly sweet juice that is served chilled. Don’t miss the glutinous sugarcane cakes if you are a fan of chewy sweet treats.

Once your appetite kicks in, it’s time to move to SoHo, home to a diverse range of international restaurants and bars, such as Tycoon Tann.

In this historic building there’s a lounge offering a wide range of innovative Chinese-influenced cocktails, and a small but classic two-storey restaurant. Try the eponymous Tycoon Tann aperitif served in a traditional tea cup, and East-meets-West delights such as charcoal-grilled Hungarian Mangalica pork with honey sauce and roast Peking duck with black caviar.

Co-founded by four childhood buddies from France, this cosy place is decorated with myriad vintage toys. As an alternative to the city’s many upscale French restaurants, Les Fils à Maman transports diners to a warm home in France. Enjoy a hearty red wine beef stew, Babybel croquettes and other traditional bistro delights.

Maison Libanaise is managed by Michelin-starred Lebanese chef James Harrison, who creates impressive dishes with ingredients and seasonings mostly imported from the Middle East. Dine on authentic Lebanese dishes such as baba ganoush and hummus, paired with Lebanese wine or beer. Or, if you are in a hurry, grab a tabouleh or pita to go.

With her innovative take on the traditional ‘bao’ or Chinese buns, May Chow, owner and chef of Little Bao, was named ‘Asia’s Best Female Chef’ by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2017. Her handmade buns creatively fuse ingredients such as pork belly, Sichuan-style fried chicken and fish tempura.

Black patio doors and a white marble bar bring industrial chicness to this Vietnamese restaurant. Here you can enjoy chicken wings in fish sauce, smoked eggplant and other authentic delights. Wash it all down with a ‘pho-jito’, with the kick of refreshing peppermint and fiery red chilli.

As night falls, it’s time for Lan Kwai Fong, Hong Kong’s hottest nightlife district.

Tucked away in the basement of a non-descript building in Lan Kwai Fong is Volar, where world-class DJs have come to spin for over a decade.

Sit on the terrace and try the signature mojito mixed with home-grown peppermint leaves at this Cuban bar and restaurant.

The tropical-themed space is divided into an Asian fusion restaurant, a lounge and sky deck, and a rooftop bar, which makes it an ideal spot to take in the intoxicating night view of Central. Catch popular DJs here for some serious partying.

Take your pick from over 300 kinds of whisky, mostly from Japan. You can find out-of-production and special or limited edition Japanese drams here. Check out the extremely rare bottles on display at the corner, including the out-of-production Karuizawa single barrel.